From nordmark-request  Sun Jan  5 01:13:58 1997
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Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 01:13:55 +0100 (MET)
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To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
From: silverfisken <m1.telia.com@d1o6.telia.com>
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Rottingb=E5gar?=
Status: O

Greetings!

Har h=F6rt hur det viskas i buskarna om hur man bev=E4pnar sig i de=
 nordligare
skogarna. Har dessutom h=F6rt att man d=E4r har sammanst=E4llt ett "How to=
 make
your own Knight-killing rattan bow"-kompendium, och ett s=E5=B4nt skulle man=
 ju
inte tacka nej till. (Sk=E5l Proth...)

S=E5 har du ett s=E5nt, k=E4nner n=E5=B4n som har det, und so weiter: Skynda=
 och
ber=E4tta! Vi h=E4r nere i Gotvik skulle inte tacka nej till ett s=E5dant,=
 d=E5 vi
=E4r har varit inne lite p=E5 samma sp=E5r.=20

Mvh Torkil=20

(E-mail: silverfisken@goteborg.mail.telia.com)



From nordmark-request  Sun Jan  5 10:01:48 1997
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From: vidumavi@online.idg.se (Ninni M. Pettersson)
Sender: vidumavi@online.idg.se
To: nordmark@Ludd.LuTH.SE
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 09:00:51 +0100
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?q?Adress=E4ndring?= 
Message-ID: <msg29257.thr-8bf6c8.f4beb@online.idg.se>
Organization: IDG Online Sweden
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Status: O

Hej!=20
 =20
 (Har ingen adress till den listansvarige utan f=E5r skicka det s=E5=20
h=E4r.)=20
 Jag har flyttat min email-adress till:=20
 vidumavi@swipnet.se=20
 och skulle g=E4rna vilja f=E5 Nordmarks lista dit ocks=E5.=20
 =20
 Tack p=E5 f=F6rhand,=20
 Widumawi=20



From nordmark-request  Wed Jan  8 20:20:04 1997
Return-Path: <gilliam@wineasy.se>
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Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 20:21:07 +0100
To: silverfisken <m1.telia.com@d1o6.telia.com>
From: Anders Olsson <gilliam@wineasy.se>
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re=3A_Rottingb=E5gar?=
Cc: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Status: O

Hejsan.

>Har h=F6rt hur det viskas i buskarna om hur man bev=E4pnar sig i de=
 nordligare
>skogarna. Har dessutom h=F6rt att man d=E4r har sammanst=E4llt ett "How to=
 make
>your own Knight-killing rattan bow"-kompendium, och ett s=E5=B4nt skulle=
 man ju
>inte tacka nej till. (Sk=E5l Proth...)
>
>S=E5 har du ett s=E5nt, k=E4nner n=E5=B4n som har det, und so weiter:=
 Skynda och
>ber=E4tta! Vi h=E4r nere i Gotvik skulle inte tacka nej till ett s=E5dant,=
 d=E5 vi
>=E4r har varit inne lite p=E5 samma sp=E5r.=20

Jag fick detta fr=E5n sir Jon, som =E4r ansvarig f=F6r b=E5gskytte p=E5=
 society niv=E5.
Det kommer litet p=E5 omv=E4gar, eftersom det =E4r J=F6rgen Danske som har=
 skrivit
det :)

Hur som helst h=E5ll tillgodo och se till att ni inte missar Prothall och
r=E5kar tr=E4ffa en stackars oskyldig v=E4pnare... ;-D

/Gilliam
-------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 1996 11:28:38 -0800 (PST)
From: John Edgerton <sirjon@netcom.com>
Subject: rattan bow construction (fwd)

Greetings

If you have, or know of anyone, that has articles on archery that can be=20
shared with other archers, please let me know and I will try to=20
distribute them.=20

Thank you

Jon


Note: I am unable to include the diagrams for this article.=20
=20
Jon
>>>>>-------------------->
=20
=20
=20
How to make a rattan bow
=20
by
Lord J|rgen Danske
=20
This is what I remember from our course. Anything that might be wrong is
due to me, not our teacher Weiland. Feel free to copy it as much as you
want.
=20
General information:
In the cantons of Uma, where I come from, and Frostheim in the barony of
Nordmark (Sweden), Drachenwald, we have built about 10-15 rattan bows and=20
we have found them to be working rather well. Few of us had been shooting=20
with a bow before and none of us have built any.
=20
A rattan bow could easily be made to 30-40 pounds. How strong you get the=20
bow depends very much on the quality of the rattan and, of course, how=20
thick the limbs are and how long the bow is. The strongest rattan bow=20
Weiland has heard of/made was nearly 70 pounds. This bow was made from a=20
rattan stick that wasn't peeled so that you had the skin on the back when=20
the bow is finished. If you use a rattan stick with the skin still on you=20
generally will get a stronger bow.
=20
The rattan bow will lose some pounds after you have been shooting for a
while. A stronger bow will lose more than a weaker bow. A 60 pounds bow
could lose 5-10 pounds, a 40 pounds somewhat less. This is depending
entirely on the quality of the rattan and since you can't determine the
quality in advance you have to guess.
=20
What I have seen from the performance of wooden bows and laminated bows
compared with rattan bows is that rattan bows are a little bit slower=20
when you release the string. I haven't been shooting with anything else=20
but my rattan bow so it's hard to compare the actual feeling but Wieland=20
told me it's slower. If you wan't to speed up your bow you can make a=20
slight recurve at the ends. Use steam to make the rattan soft, force it=20
to bend the "wrong" way and let it dry. This gives extra speed but not=20
very much extra power.
=20
Why make a rattan bow if it's slower than a wooden bow?
For one thing it's a good start if you want to make bows. It took me=20
about 8-9 hours to make a bow, a string and an arrow and it will probably=20
take less time for the second bow. Weiland makes a rattan bow within an=20
hour. Almost any rattan stick will do as long as there are no cracks in=20
it, the material is cheap, rather easy to find and very soft to work=20
with. If you want to make a wooden bow you have to find the right=20
material, probably dry it and it's rather hard to work with. The fibres=20
of rattan seldom break so it's ideal to have it with you while camping,=20
canoeing and so on when you probably will be rather rough against your bow.
=20
How about backing the bow with some harder material like hickory to get
extra strength? Don't! The rattan can't take to much compression=20
according to Weiland. You could use rattan for backing. It seems that=20
rattan can take stretching far better then compression.
=20
We have mostly used the bows for target shooting and to hit a target=20
about 20 x 30 cm at a distance of 30 m is not impossible and is probably=20
easier for a trained archer. We are amateurs. We have tried a little to=20
simulate combat archery by shooting on a target on a soccer-field (some=20
boards, not a player!). The distance was about
60-70 m (70-80 yards) and with a little training at least 50 % of the
arrows (birch wood with sharp point, not combat archery points) landed
within 2-3 m (2-3 yards) from the target. This distance was a little to
long for the weakest bows. My bow (about 20 pounds) could get the arrow
about 15 m (15 yards) past the target but that's the upper limit for my
bow. An archer with a wooden bow misjudged the first arrow a little and=20
got the arrow well past 100 m (110 yards). That bow is much stronger than=20
our rattan bows. We have not been trying to hunt animals with our bows=20
since it is forbidden by the law in Sweden and I can't recommend it since=20
I have no experience in hunting at all. According to Weiland, the rattan=20
bows are not good for hunting. This is due to it's lower speed (if I=20
understood him correctly). It seems to me that hunting should be better=20
with some sort of a gun.
=20
=20
Material and tools:
A straight, about 4 cm (1.5 inch) thick rattan stick of your own length
plus 40 cm(1.5 feet).
Knife
Spoke shave
Single-graded file
Saw
Fine and very fine sandpaper
Something to fasten the stick with so that it doesn't move while you are
working.
Bow-string
Tillering board, see fig 1. If you haven't built a bow before, you=20
probably won't know what it is (I didn't anyway).
=20
=20
Fig. 1. A tillering board from the front and from the side.
=20
How to do it:
Look at the stick and determine which "side" of the stick that looks to=20
be best, i.e. without any deformation. The best side will be the back of=20
the bow, i.e. the side that is furthest away from you when you shoot. To=20
this side you will do nothing with, except with the very fine sandpaper=20
to get a smooth surface. If the fibres of the back are broken the bow=20
will probably break because this side stretches when you draw the bow. If=20
there are any cracks in the last 20 cm of the ends it doesn't matter=20
because you will saw them off. If there are cracks, e.g. in the middle of=20
the stick, you shouldn't use it because it will probably break. If there=20
are any dents on what you decided to be the back you could try to put a=20
little water on it and hope that the dent rises. The fibres can break in=20
the dents so it's a good thing to get rid of them. My own bow has two=20
dents in the middle of the bow but after 3-400 shots I haven't noticed=20
that it is about to break. It's better to be on the safe side. Why=20
haven't I tried to get rid of them? I'm a lazy optimist!
=20
Measure out the length of yourself on the stick. If there are cracks at=20
the ends, make sure that you get rid off them. If that means that the=20
stick becomes a few centimetres (1-2 inches) shorter than yourself it=20
doesn't matter, but don't make it too short because if you don't get the=20
strength in the bow that you wanted you can shorten it when you are=20
almost finished and by that way get extra strength.
=20
Saw off the extra part so that you have a stick of your own length,=20
without cracks and, preferably, without dents. The measurements I will=20
give are from my own bow that worked. You could try to change some of=20
them but I can't recommend it since I don't know what will happen.
Lay the stick down, on the floor or a carpenters bench if you've got one,=20
with the back downwards. The side that now is upwards is called the=20
belly. Mark the middle of the bow on the belly and decide which end you=20
want to be up and which one you want to be down. Which side you choose=20
doesn't matter.
=20
>From the middle you make a mark at 5 cm (2 inches) at each side of the
middle. The space between these two lines will be where you hold the bow
while you are shooting.
=20
Now it's time to make the bow thinner towards the ends. Turn the bow a
quarter of a turn so that you have the side of the bow upwards. Draw a=20
line that is vertical against the floor at each end and in the middle of=20
the end of the stick. Imagine, or draw if you can (I couldn't), a=20
straight line from the two 2 inches marks towards the mark at the top and=20
the bottom. These two lines go from the surface of the stick on the=20
belly-side through the stick and end halfway through the stick at the top=20
and bottom. Now turn it back a quarter of a turn so that you have the=20
belly upwards again. Fasten the stick tightly but not too hard. If it's=20
squeezed too hard you'll damage it and the bow may break. Use the spoke=20
shave and remove everything above your imaginary line. So if you have a=20
stick like mine, which is 4 cm (1.5 inch) in diameter, you take away=20
almost nothing at the two 2 inches mark but 2 cm (0.75 inch) at the ends.=20
See fig. 2. If you want a heavier bow you could try to make the bow a=20
little thicker towards the ends.
=20
=20
Fig. 2. Side view of the stick. Remove the black part.
=20
The next step is to turn to the width. If you look at the stick from the
belly or the back the bow should be widest at, what will be, the handle=20
and slender at the top and bottom. To get that shape you put the stick on=20
the floor again with the belly-side up. At the two ends you mark the=20
centre of the belly horizontal to the ground, i.e. with a stick that is 4=20
cm thick (1.5 inch) you make a mark at 2cm (0.75 inch). 1.2 cm (0.5 inch)=20
from the centre you make a new mark on each side of the middle,=20
horizontal to the ground. The space between those two marks is the
final width of the top and bottom. Take a one meter ruler or something=20
else that is long and straight (if your length is more than 2 meters you=20
need something longer than one meter) and draw a line on the belly-side=20
from the middle of the bow-length to one of the two marks 1.2 cm (0.5=20
inch) from the middle at the ends. Draw the line from the side of the=20
middle of the bow-length so that when you have drawn the four lines they=20
will form a V-shape on each side of the bow-length middle. See fig. 3.
=20
=20
Fig. 3. View on the belly-side. Remove the black part.
=20
Fasten the stick tightly but not too hard with the side up and use the
spoke shave to remove everything above the lines you have drawn. Even if
your lines don't end at the same place towards the middle, make sure that=20
you use the spoke shave so that they do it anyway. The lines are only=20
there to help, you'll have to relay on your eyes for the finish.=20
The symmetry of the bow is very important. Now your stick looks very much=20
like a bow.
=20
What you have to do next is fix the ends, the nock, so that you can=20
string your bow. Make a mark at 1.2 cm (0.5 inch) from each end on both=20
sides. Use the knife and, from the marks, you cut away the rattan towards=20
the ends. See fig. 4 how it could look like when you're finished. Make it=20
about 0.4 cm (0.16 inch) deep. Now make the cut slope downwards towards=20
the handle and a little towards the middle. The slope should be steeper=20
towards the belly than towards the back. At the back it should almost be=20
vertical against the length of the bow. Make sure that there are no sharp=20
edges around the nock that can wear on the string.
=20
=20
Fig. 4. View of the nock in natural size. From the left: view from the
back, view from the side, a view of the belly and from the end.
=20
Now you should be able to string your bow. If you don't know how long=20
draw length you should measure it up now. This length is always measured=20
in inches and you will probably end up with a measure somewhere between=20
20-35 inches. The draw length is the distance from the back of the bow to=20
the point where you hold your hand when you have fully drawn the bow. Ask=20
a friend to help you measure it up, it's nearly impossible to do it by=20
yourself. You should use an arrow or stick to measure this distance. The=20
draw length is how long your arrows must be (plus an extra 2 inches) and=20
you tiller your bow to that length. Don't ever try to draw your bow more=20
than your draw length. This is a certain way to break your bow. The bow=20
might not break right away but it will probably get damaged and break=20
later. Don't push your luck! I have a draw length of 34 inches and I will=20
never use someone else's bow that I'm not certain will be able to be=20
drawn to 34 inches. Ratan is a rather forgiving material so this rule=20
doesn't apply as hard for a ratan bow but it's unnecessary to take any=20
risks of this kind.
=20
Use the tillering-board to make sure that the bow bends exactly the same=20
on both sides of the middle. Put the strung bow on the tillering board=20
and draw the bow to about 10-15 inches at first. Take a few steps back=20
and look at the bow. The 10 cm (4 inches) closest to the the nocks on=20
each side should be rather straight when the bow is drawn. This part of=20
the limb will not work as the rest of the limb. Which side (limb) is most=20
bent? Use the file to remove material from the other limb. This will make=20
the least bent limb "softer" so it will bend more. Since rattan is a very=20
soft material to work with be sure that you don't file away to much=20
because then you will have to file some on the other side and you could=20
end up with a bow so weak that it won't even kill a fly. So use the=20
tillering-board often! Take your time when you do this because if the bow=20
doesn't bend in exactly the same way you get a bow that doesn't behave as=20
it's supposed to. Put the bow back on the tillering-board and draw it a=20
few inches more and repeat the procedure. Make also sure that the bow=20
bends evenly all over so that it's not a small area that bends very much=20
(what we call a knee in swedish) and another that is almost straight.=20
Repeat until you have a perfect bend when the bow is drawn to your draw=20
length. It is a good help if you have a friend that could draw the bow in=20
the tilleringboard so that you can see
how the limbs are working. If your bow is too weak you could now saw off=20
an inch or so at each nock, make new nocks and string it. Don't shorten=20
it to much though, there's a limit to how much you can bend rattan to.
If your bow is too strong you use the file or spoke shave, very gently to=20
remove some wood from the belly, to get it weaker.
=20
When you are done with that you use the sandpaper to get a smooth=20
surface. Use only the very fine sandpaper on the back and not very much=20
since you don't want to break any fibres on the back.
=20
Now you could use you bow but I recommend that you do two things first:
1) Since the ratan-bow will lose up to 10 pounds when it's damp weather=20
you should varnish it with 2-component boat-varnish a number of times.=20
This varnish will not crack as other will do and it protects the bow from=20
dirt, moisture and scratches. You could also use linseed oil, tar or some=20
sort of wax, although it's not as good. For a wooden bow I would use oil=20
or wax but for a ratan bow it's better to use varnish.
=20
2) At the handle you should make some sort of protection otherwise your=20
bow will get a lot of scratches from the arrows while you are shooting.=20
The protection could be leather, linen yarn that you wind around or=20
whatever you've got. If you use yarn or something like that it could be a=20
good idea to glue it to the bow. Otherwise it will probably unwind rather=20
quickly. What I have used? Well, as I mentioned earlier I'm lazy so I=20
haven't made any protection. I will do it now however, since I've seen=20
how much damage the arrows have made.
=20
If you have any questions please contact me and I will try to answer.
Adress: Jvrgen Jvnsson                 =20
Orienteringsstigen 8CS-903 38 UMEE SWEDEN      =20
E-mail:jorgen.jonsson@umf.umu.se =20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 14:04:25 +0100
From: Jorgen Jonsson <jorgen.jonsson@umf.umu.se>
=20
=20
DOG BONE BACKING FOR BOWS (rawhide chew bones)
=20
A WORD OF CAUTION. When you tie the hide to the bow there will come loose=20
small particles of the hide that may penetrate you skin. A friend of=20
Weiland made this kind of backing and had a small wound on his hand. He=20
got a rather serious blood-poisoning and was hospitalised for a while. So=20
use rubber gloves when you tie the hide to the bow.
=20
The material you need is:
2-4 toybones for dogs depending on witch size the bones are and the=20
length of the bow. You will get the best result if you only need two=20
bones so get the bones for mutated dobermanns , some 40 cm length when=20
they are tied. That was enough for my bow that is almost 1.9 meters (a=20
little more than 6 feet if I got it right).
Water
Sandpaper
White glue (ordinary wood glue). Hide glue will also work but you have
considerable less time to work with and it's easier to handle white glue
and easier to get.
Brush to the glue
Scissors or shears. You use this to cut the wet raw hide so get a sturdy
one. A knife will also work but it was a lot easier with a pair of
scissors.
A really sharp and thin knife.
A 4 mm holepunch (I'm not certain if you call it that. You hammer on it=20
to get a hole in leather). Don't use the kind of tongs were you squeeze=20
hole. That will take a LOT of time since it's very hard to penetrate and=20
you will get very, very tired in your hands if you get any succes at all.
About 10 meters of cord/string that won't break if you draw it hard.
Two large needles
A pair of rubber gloves
1-2 happy co-workers
=20
How to do it:
First of all you need to put the bones in water so that they get soft and=20
are easy to handle. It will take about 12 hours to get them soft enough=20
so do this the day before. It doesn't matter if they are in water longer=20
but don't let them be in the same water longer than one day. It will=20
start to smell really bad. Now you can untie the knots. Check that the=20
bones cover the back of the bow and that they overlap with 2-3 inches at=20
the joint. Note that you can and will stretch the hide when your glueing.=20
If you only need to use two bones and the joint is at the handle it isn't=20
that critical that they overlap that much since the bow doesn't move very=20
much at the handle.
=20
Now put the hide on a plane surface and place the back of the bow on it.
Draw a line on the hide about 1.5 cm (a little more then 1/2 inch) from=20
the bow on each side. In this extra 1.5 cm you punch the holes so that=20
you can tie it up so it doesn't have to be perfect edges. You will remove=20
it later.
=20
Now it's time to mark were the holes will be in the first hide. Start 1=20
cm in from the top edge. Follow the long edge and make a new hole every 3=20
cm (little more than 1 inch). Mark the last hole 1 cm from the bottom=20
edge. Make sure that you have the same numbers of marks on each side of=20
the hide. Now you punch the holes. Let there be 4 mm of hide between the=20
edge and the hole.
=20
When your finished whith the first hide it will be a little bit to dry so=20
put in water again for about 30 minutes. During that time you prepare for=20
the actual gluing. Since you have been handling the bow a great deal=20
there will be a little fat on the back of the bow. Use a rather fine=20
sandpaper to remove it. Then you coat the back with a little water a few=20
times. This you do to avoid the glue to dry to fast. Cut two pices of=20
cord of about 0.5 meters length and on at 3 meter. The longer pice you=20
thread two needles with, one at each end. Make a knot so that the needles=20
stay in place.
=20
When 30 min has passed you take up the hide and dry the excess of water
away. Put glue on the the part of the bow were you will put the first=20
hide. Use a brush to get an even layer and be genorous with the glue=20
since you only get one chance. Put the hide on the glue and use one piece=20
of the 0.5m cord to tie it to the nock using the first pair of holes in=20
the hide. Make a really tight knot so that it stays in place. Use the=20
other 0.5 m cord to tie the other end of the hide at the handle. Here=20
comes your happy co-workers in handy since you should stretch the hide as=20
much as you can. You probably will need somone to hold the bow etc. When=20
the hide is fixed in both ends you take the longer peice of cord lace the=20
rest of the hide up like a pair of shoes. Draw it really tight and make a=20
knot every now and then so that it stays in place. A helping finger is=20
good to have here. If the cord was too short you just lace it as far as=20
posible, make a few knots and take another piece of cord and finish it with.
=20
When you finished with this you look on the glued hide and if you can
determine any airbubbles between the hide and the bow, make sure you=20
press them out so that the glue really sticks to the bow and hide. Let it=20
dry for a while so that the surface gets a little hard. It will take 1-2=20
hours.
=20
During this time you prepare the other piece of hide exactly as the first=20
one, cut new pieces of cord, sandpaper the other side of the back and=20
coat it with water. When the first hide has dried up a little you measure=20
out how much the two pieces will overlap at the joint. Thin out the=20
overlap on the glued piece so that you will get a nice even joint. The=20
part closest to the edge at the handle should be really thin so that you=20
get a smooth crossing between the hides. Put the glue on as for the first=20
piece of hide and tie it up in the same way as before. Remember to check=20
for airbubbles.
=20
Now you finished for this day. Put the bow in a rather cool place (10-15
degrees Celcius) and not to dry for 3 days. It's better to let it dry
slowly. After 3 days you can take it in to a warmer place and let it dry
for another 4 days. When a week has passed you can remove the cords and=20
the excess of hide that doesn't cover the back. Shoot about 1-200 arrows=20
and then make the final tillering. Finished.
=20
Well, I hope you will have some use of this.
=20
Best regards
Danske




---------------------------------------------------
Anders Olsson       (SCA: Gilliam Blackhorn)
e-mail home: gilliam@wineasy.se
e-mail work: anders.olsson@era.ericsson.se


From nordmark-request  Wed Jan  8 20:42:19 1997
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From: Rusty Cole <rcole@informix.com>
Subject: Horse hair padding
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se (nordmark)
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 13:40:16 CST
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.3 PL11]
Status: O

Hello all,

I have a friend that was intrigued by my descriptions oh how you use 
horsehair for armour padding.  Any suggestions, ideas, plans, maybe places 
to get the horsehair/construction of the padding you could share would be 
great!  I know he would love it.

Thanks,

Hrolf Rustig
aka Rusty
 
rcole@informix.com


From nordmark-request  Thu Jan  9 08:24:38 1997
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From: Leif Euren <leeu@celsiustech.se>
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To: Nordmark Mailing List <nordmark@ludd.luth.se>
cc: rcole@informix.com
Subject: Re: Horse hair padding
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Hrolf wrote:
> ... use horsehair for armour padding.  Any suggestions, ideas,
> plans, maybe places to get the horsehair/... you could share would
> be great!

As I've understood it, the horsehair should be "spun", i.e. made curly.
This is common practice for the horsehair used as padding in
furniture, such as armchairs, sofas etc.  Thus, "spun" horsehair
should be available at an upholsterer - at least that's the way we get
such horsehair here in Nordmark.

  yours
  Peder Klingrode                         | Leif Euren    Stockholm, Sweden
  Holmrike, Nordmark, Drachenwald         | leeu@celsiustech.se


From nordmark-request  Thu Jan  9 08:56:42 1997
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 08:55 +0100
From: annaf@sebank.se (Frimodig, Anna (ANNAF))
To: leeu@celsiustech.se, nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Cc: rcole@informix.com
Subject: SV: Re: Horse hair padding
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
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Status: O

It is also common i horse-saddles, so you can contact a saddle-maker.
/Tora
 ----------
>Fr=E5n: Leif Euren
>Till: nordmark
>Kopia: rcole
>Ang=E5ende: Re: Horse hair padding
>Datum: den 9 januari 1997 8.24
>
>From: leeu@celsiustech.se
>Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 08:24:34 +0100
>Subject: Re: Horse hair padding
>
>Hrolf wrote:
>> ... use horsehair for armour padding.  Any suggestions, ideas,
>> plans, maybe places to get the horsehair/... you could share would
>> be great!
>
>As I've understood it, the horsehair should be "spun", i.e. made curly.
>This is common practice for the horsehair used as padding in
>furniture, such as armchairs, sofas etc.  Thus, "spun" horsehair
>should be available at an upholsterer - at least that's the way we get
>such horsehair here in Nordmark.
>
>  yours
>  Peder Klingrode                         | Leif Euren    Stockholm, Sweden
>  Holmrike, Nordmark, Drachenwald         | leeu@celsiustech.se
>
>
>


From nordmark-request  Thu Jan  9 09:43:04 1997
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Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 09:41:59 +0100
From: Rikard Johnels <im@passagen.se>
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Status: O

Hello!
=46rom what I know, you might still be able to get matrasses with horse
hair "stuffing"...
Either OLD ones via stores that sell used stuff for charity, like UFF or
Myrornas in Sweden,
 or MAYBE via bed manufacturers that "pride" them selves to make
"enviromentaly safe" beds.
Like "H=E4stens" (also in sweden)
Or you might take it the LONG way and ask at your local "butcherer"...
Other than that...???
I once saw a "padding" with hair, BIG, WARM and Cumbersome... And It
SMELLED!!!!!
But that was ages ago, and not thru the SCA...

Well... Good luck!
	=


-- =

/------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------/
/ mailto:im@hem.passagen.se	Rikard "Iain MacCallum" Johnels			/
/ http://hem.passagen.se/im/	Homepage...					/
/------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------/

From nordmark-request  Thu Jan  9 11:39:00 1997
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From: Ralph Snel <ralph@astro.lu.se>
Message-Id: <199701091038.AA239566337@nastol.astro.lu.se>
Subject: Re: Horse hair padding
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 11:38:57 MET
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SUN.3.95.970109081738.8914A-100000@world>; from "Leif Euren" at Jan 9, 97 8:24 am
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Status: O

> As I've understood it, the horsehair should be "spun", i.e. made curly.
> This is common practice for the horsehair used as padding in
> furniture, such as armchairs, sofas etc.  Thus, "spun" horsehair
> should be available at an upholsterer - at least that's the way we get
> such horsehair here in Nordmark.

What about the manes and tail as a whole? Greek and Roman helmets occasionally
had a crest with a (braided?) tail hanging down the neck. Is the padding hair
from tail and mane, or body hair? Of the latter I will have a nice supply
coming spring :)

Ralph Snel
ralph@astro.lu.se

From nordmark-request  Thu Jan  9 13:51:55 1997
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From: Sven Noren <Sven.Noren@kemi.UU.SE>
Subject: Re: Horse hair padding
Status: O

At 11.38 09-01-1997 MET, Ralph Snel wrote:
> Is the padding hair
>from tail and mane, or body hair? Of the latter I will have a nice supply
>coming spring :)

The sources I've seen refers to the padding material as "tagel" (that's
swedish, I dont know the english word for it) wich means hair from the tail
or mane. Also, the stuff found in matresses has rather long fibres. As I
understand, the body hair of a horse isn't exceptionally long, or am I wrong? 
Yes, a padding made from horse hair gets rather stuffy and warm, imagine
having a mattress wrapped around you! However, the one case I saw was very
good armor: I don't think the wearer ever got a bruise on the parts covered
by the padding. Note that he was not using anything on top of the padding.

	Frithiof the Friendly Herald  :-)[X]


From nordmark-request  Thu Jan  9 14:17:21 1997
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From: Rikard Johnels <jor@ffa.se>
To: Sven Noren <Sven.Noren@kemi.UU.SE>
cc: Nordmark@Ludd.LuTH.SE
Subject: Re: Horse hair padding
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Status: O

"Tagel" is "horse hair" all according to my dictionary...
I don't know if there is a special word for it in English..
There is a russian/american breed called "Bashkir curly" wich supposedly 
has WERY long hair that is more like woll and that is shed during 
spring/summer.
I guess that it could be used... (info courtesy of: Nedra NicNaught)


/-------------------------------------------------------------------------------/
/ mailto:jor@ffa.se		Rikard Johnels                        		/
/ http://www.ffa.se     	(The Aeronautical Research Institute of Sweden)	/
/-------------------------------------------------------------------------------/

/-------------------------------------------------------------------------------/
/ mailto:im@hem.passagen.se	Rikard "Iain MacCallum" Johnels			/
/ http://hem.passagen.se/im/	Homepage...					/
/-------------------------------------------------------------------------------/

From nordmark-request  Thu Jan  9 18:00:33 1997
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Hejsan.
Det är en kille i Juneborg som undrar om det finns någon i Nordmark som 
vill bygga en hjälm, eller sälja en begagnad åt honom. Finns det?

mvh
Walderik



From nordmark-request  Thu Jan  9 23:53:43 1997
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From: a95jonso@student.his.se (Jonas =?iso-8859-1?Q?S=F6derqvist?= )
Subject: Re: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Hj=94lm?=
Status: O

>Hejsan.
>Det =E4r en kille i Juneborg som undrar om det finns n=E5gon i Nordmark som
>vill bygga en hj=E4lm, eller s=E4lja en begagnad =E5t honom. Finns det?
>
>mvh
>Walderik
Klart grabben ska ha en hj=E4lm...

Vad =E4r det han vill ha?

B=E4ttre begagnad tunnhj=E4lm, rost finnes, s=E4ljes till vrakpris

Jonas S=F6derqvist
a.k.a. Aodhan mac Niall
0500-413689



From nordmark-request  Fri Jan 10 00:15:48 1997
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In-reply-to: <32D5A3A1.119F@algonet.se> (message from Mats Bergstrom on Thu,
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Subject: Re: Hjälm
Status: O

Jag har en hj{lm till salu. Lyxvarianten. 250 dollar = 1700 sp{nn
ink|pspris. Kan t{nka mig att skiljas fr}n den f|r 1200 pix. [r
aldrig anv{nd i strid.

William

From nordmark-request  Fri Jan 10 10:57:30 1997
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Hej
Jag skulle vilja vara med p=E5 mailinglistan, min adress =E4r=20
torbjorn.sjostrom@teleperformance.se
Hoppas det g=E5r bra.

Mvh/ Torbj=F6rn (Eskil)

From nordmark-request  Fri Jan 10 14:53:39 1997
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Hällå mitt namn är Torbjörn Boström eller om ni vill Elric Hedersköld och kommer
från Uma(Umeå).

Varför jag nu skriver är att jag har skaffat hem plåt åt mig men jag vet inte
hur jag bygger knäskytt eller armbågsskytt och inteheller halsskydd så kan
någon höra av sig till mig, om ni vet hur man bygger sig det eller åtminstone
skickar en ridning på ett förlag på knä och armbågsskytt, min E-mail adress är
sir_johan@hotmail.com

Adjö mina vänner.

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From nordmark-request  Fri Jan 10 17:31:14 1997
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From: a95jonso@student.his.se (Jonas =?iso-8859-1?Q?S=F6derqvist?= )
Subject: Re: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Hj=94lm?=
Status: O

>Jag har en hj{lm till salu. Lyxvarianten. 250 dollar =3D 1700 sp{nn
>ink|pspris. Kan t{nka mig att skiljas fr}n den f|r 1200 pix. [r
>aldrig anv{nd i strid.
>
>William
1200 sp=E4nn!
Den f=E5r allt vara bra lyxig f=F6r det priset...
Vad =E4r det f=F6r en modell?

Min tunna =E4r en =C5lstene "Aran=E4s" 93:a, lite bucklig och rostig, men an=
nars
bra snygg (har gjort den sj=E4lv...)

/Jonas S=F6derqvist
a.k.a. Aodhan mac Niall



From nordmark-request  Sat Jan 11 13:37:19 1997
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Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 13:41:04 +0100
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
From: a95jonso@student.his.se (Jonas =?iso-8859-1?Q?S=F6derqvist?= )
Subject: Re: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Hj=94lm?=
Status: O

>Aodhan skrev:
>>Min tunna =E4r en =C5lstene "Aran=E4s" 93:a, lite bucklig och rostig, men =
annars
>>bra snygg (har gjort den sj=E4lv...)
>
>Hur m=E5nga mil... eh, jag menar krig, har den g=E5tt?  :-)
>
>/Gilliam

Tja den var med fr=E5n Kn=E4cke -93 fram till Wisby -95 och under den period=
en
har den anv=E4nts vid de flesta krig och st=F6rre torneringar (+ n=E5gra min=
dre)
inom Nordmarks gr=E4nser.

Dessutom har den varit inne p=E5 3 000 slags service och jag har bytt oljan!

/Aodhan



From nordmark-request  Sun Jan 12 23:28:43 1997
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From: Ralph Snel <ralph@astro.lu.se>
Message-Id: <199701122228.AA057558119@nastol.astro.lu.se>
Subject: Knaeckebroedskrig X
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se, nordrike@ludd.luth.se
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 23:28:39 MET
X-Mailer: Elm [revision: 112.2]
Status: O

Knaeckebroed War X

Yes! This is the tenth time Torsheim will host the annual war to
decide on which side to butter the knaeckebroed. The date is from Saturday
May 3rd to Sunday May 11th. The site is as always Hoerrs Nygaard near Sjoebo.
Like in the old days, there will be a feast: the pig is growing in our
stable, the mead is patiently fermenting in our wine cellar.
This year, to celebrate the occasion of holding the tenth war, there will
be a tournament in knightly virtues. The prize for the winner of the tournament
is a handforged ballock dagger with additional eating utensils. Note that
this is not just a heavy weapons tourney. Many branches will be included,
among which are horseback riding (what else would one expect from a
knight?), combat with knightly weapons, chivalric behaviour, and many other
things we can think of. So even if you are not skilled at arms, you can stand
a chance of winning this tournament.
During the first part of the week we will try to organize a university.
We are still looking for lecturers, so if you would like to contribute,
please contact the autocrats.
Feast will be Friday evening.
As dictated by tradition, the knaeckebroed war will be on the last Saturday.
We have doubled our number of warhorses (we have two black stallions now),
and at least one extra horse that can be ridden will be present.
If you want to bring your own horse, please contact the autocrat (for mares
in heat a free foal for next spring is included in the site fee :-).

Note that this is not an official SCA event. Heavy weapons combat will be
SCA compatible. _Anyone_ is welcome.

Autocrats are Klodwik van Naerdinckhove and Ylva Enhoerning
Ralph Snel and Anna Jonasson
AAsum 15
27591 Sjoebo
(+46) (0)416-18610
ralph@astro.lu.se

More information will follow in a later announcement

From nordmark-request  Mon Jan 13 09:13:30 1997
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 09:17:26 +0100
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
From: jan.frelin@pub.mil.se (Jan Frelin)
Subject: Re: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Rottingb=E5gar?=
Status: O

>Greetings!
>
>Har h=F6rt hur det viskas i buskarna om hur man bev=E4pnar sig i de nordlig=
are
>skogarna. Har dessutom h=F6rt att man d=E4r har sammanst=E4llt ett "How to =
make
>your own Knight-killing rattan bow"-kompendium, och ett s=E5=B4nt skulle=
 man ju
>inte tacka nej till. (Sk=E5l Proth...)
>
>S=E5 har du ett s=E5nt, k=E4nner n=E5=B4n som har det, und so weiter:=
 Skynda och
>ber=E4tta! Vi h=E4r nere i Gotvik skulle inte tacka nej till ett s=E5dant,=
 d=E5 vi
>=E4r har varit inne lite p=E5 samma sp=E5r.
>
>Mvh Torkil
>
>(E-mail: silverfisken@goteborg.mail.telia.com)

Jahaja. Lycka Till!


=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Hartmann Rogge, Shire of Holmrike, Nordmark, Drachenwald
Jan Frelin, Stockholm, Sweden
jan.frelin@pub.mil.se



From nordmark-request  Mon Jan 13 10:01:59 1997
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 10:05:56 +0100
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
From: jan.frelin@pub.mil.se (Jan Frelin)
Subject: Re: Horse hair padding
Status: O

>Hello all,
>
>I have a friend that was intrigued by my descriptions oh how you use
>horsehair for armour padding.  Any suggestions, ideas, plans, maybe places
>to get the horsehair/construction of the padding you could share would be
>great!  I know he would love it.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Hrolf Rustig
>aka Rusty
>
>rcole@informix.com

Hi Rusty. Thanx for the x-mas card!

I've used a horsehair coif for about two years now, and it gives excellent
protection. The general method is to sew inch-wide channels in two layers
of heavy cloth and stuff with curled horse-hair. I also sew in a thin
cotton wad to stop the horsehairs from itching.

Cheers,

===========================================================================
Hartmann Rogge, Shire of Holmrike, Nordmark, Drachenwald
Jan Frelin, Stockholm, Sweden
jan.frelin@pub.mil.se



From nordmark-request  Mon Jan 13 10:05:47 1997
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 10:09:45 +0100
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
From: jan.frelin@pub.mil.se (Jan Frelin)
Subject: Re: Hors hairs..
Status: O

Rikard "Iain MacCallum" Johnels wrote:
>I once saw a "padding" with hair, BIG, WARM and Cumbersome... And It
>SMELLED!!!!!

They tend to smell, but not from the horsehair... They can be
machine-washed in luke-warm water however.

Cheers,

===========================================================================
Hartmann Rogge, Shire of Holmrike, Nordmark, Drachenwald
Jan Frelin, Stockholm, Sweden
jan.frelin@pub.mil.se



From nordmark-request  Mon Jan 13 19:20:47 1997
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	(Smail-3.2 EDT 1996-Jul- #3 built 1996-Sep-25)
Message-ID: <32DA7D31.4824@df.lth.se>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 19:21:37 +0100
From: Patrik Nilsson <pat@df.lth.se>
Reply-To: pat@df.lth.se
Organization: The Shire of Attemark
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0Gold (Win95; I)
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To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Subject: Dubbelkriget!
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Status: O

Double Wars in Nordmark
May 2nd - 12th 1997 (A.S XXXI - XXXII) Sjorod, Skane, Sweden (NO STREET
ADDRESS)
                                                                                       
Once again we in the Shire of Attemark (former Torsheim) are proud to
sponsor the Great Doublewar.
If you are puzzled about things we can assure you that this is the event
sponsored by the SCA shire. Everyone is of course welcome, member or
not, as long as you follow the SCA rules! At this years Doublewar there
will be some changes, since we have decided that we definitely will be
new and improved. For instance we have a new site that we think is
better planned with more forests to play in, a very  nice, cool lake and
there will be hot  showers as well.(yes, its true, we promise, you can
trust us, we are from Nordmark!) There will be a medieval campingsite
and a separate mundane campingsite which will not be seen, same as for
the parkingplace. Among other things that we can already tell you is
that we are planning a big university, baronial tourneys (we have
invited
every  barony and to-be barony to sponsor one ), a fairytale-theme
tourney, other tourneys, archery contests,  a war-theme archery contest,
Two banquets, special newbee activities and lots, lots, lots of more
fun.  That is what we will tell you now but we will later on publish a
more specific schedule over the ten days.

This will be a campingevent and the indoor space is VERY limited. You
will need very strong medical (or other) reasons, and unfortunately it
is an extra expense for those who has to sleep inside. The sooner you
write in your registration the bigger chance to get an indoor space.

Site opens: Friday May 2nd 12.00
Site closes Sunday May 12th 14.00

Prices:
Sitefee 10 days:        250 SEK
Indoor 10 days          150 SEK extra
Non SCA member 10 days:  50 SEK extra
 
Sitefee per day:         30 SEK
Indoor per day           30 SEK extra
Non SCA member per day    5 SEK extra 

Food:
Breakfast Mon 5th -Fri 9th  15 SEK/each 
Lunch  Mon 5th -Fri 9th     35 SEK/each
Banquets 3rd and 10th      100 SEK/each

Tavern food:
If paid in advance 
(six days):             180 SEK (30 SEK each)
If paid in advance
(Per day):               40 SEK/each (Tell us what days)

If paid at the door:    
(Six days):             270 SEK (45 SEK each)
If paid at the door:    
(Per Day)                50 SEK

No registration:         40 SEK

Send in a written registration before April 15th April 1997 to:

      Brian of Lindisfarne
(Mka) Patrik Nilsson
      Kulgranden 9 D:180
      S-226 49 Lund
      SWEDEN
      +46-46-14 44 74 (Answering machine)
      +46-70-7618 105 (Cellular, answering machine)
email:pat@df.lth.se 

Written registrations MUST contain following:

- Your SCA (if any) and mundane name
- What you4re paying for
- How many pavilions you have in your camp
- Diet restrictions

Payment before April 15th 1997 to Swedish postal account addressed to:
SKA-Skane
PG 189 84 66-6
Checks are not accepted

If  you are from abroad you may pay at the door but YOU HAVE TO MAKE A
REGISTRATION before April 15th 1997

Mainautocrat: Lady Raven        
(Mka)   Mette Hammer
        c/o Nordlind
        Anggatan 12d
        S-223 59 Lund   
        SWEDEN
        +46-46-18 44 17

You can also use the Shire of Attemarks emailadress for any questions:
shadowind@trust-me.com 

Road description will follow in another announcement and will also be
available by Email or on The Double War homepage.
URL=http://www.df.lth.se/~pat/attemark/dblwar.html


-- 
    Patrik Nilsson (SCA: Brian of Lindisfarne)                   
              Email: pat@df.lth.se         
URL: http://www.df.lth.se/~pat/index.html  TIP#2306       
  -=-Teamleader Nilfisk Nailers Paintball Team-=-

From nordmark-request  Wed Jan 15 12:03:07 1997
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Organization: Civil Engineering Lund
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 11:35:53 +0100
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?bort_fr=E5n_listan?=
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Message-Id: <12F5BA318C@130.235.7.201>
Status: O

Hall=E5 i hela huvet!

Stryk 

bi93aj75@lthvov.vsek.lth.se

fr=E5n listan. F=E5r inte ha kvar adressen pga examen...
=C5terkommer ev med ny, fr=E4sch adress i framtiden!

mvh/Anders

From nordmark-request  Thu Jan 16 02:06:37 1997
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To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
From: xordph@ludd.luth.se ( =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen?= =?iso-8859-1?Q?_?=
	=?iso-8859-1?Q?=D6hman?= )
Subject: Norrskensfesten 7-9 Februari
Status: O

Norrskensfesten 7-9 Februari

Borgare och b=96nder, Majest=94ter och p=96bel, h=96ren i noga p=C2.=
 Frostheim, k=94nda
v=94rldens nordligaste utpost inbjuda h=94rmed alla och enwar till att bevis=
ta
Norrskensfesten.

=46redagen den 7 Feb kl 18.00 kommer vi att s=94nka vindbryggan och =96ppna
v=94rdshuset, som vanligt finner ni god mat, diverse tilltugg och dryck till
humana priser.

P=C2 l=96rdagen finns det m=96jlighet, f=96r de som =94r intresserade att=
 =C2ka till
Jokkmokks marknad (som h=96lls f=96rsta g=C2ngen 1605). Lokaler f=96r fighti=
ng
aktiviteter och dans kommer ocks=C2 att finnas, f=96r de som hellre stannar
kvar.
P=C2 l=96rdagskv=94llen bjuds det till bankett med mat, underh=C2llning och=
 s=C2ng i
goda v=94nners lag. De som k=94nner att de vill delta med egna bidrag till
underh=C2llningen =94r ocks=C2 v=94lkomna.

S=96ndagen l=94mnar vi till valfria aktiviteter, ett stilla uppvaknande,
st=94dning och hemf=94rd i egen takt.

N=9FR SKALL JAG ANM=9FLA MIG??
Sista anm=94lningsdag =94r m=C2ndagen den 3/2, d=94refter tillkommer en
f=96rseningsavgift p=C2 50 SEK.
Betalning sker till postgirokonto 471 93 70-1 (SKA/Frostheim). Ange
medeltidsnamn,  modernt namn, adress, telefon, vad du betalar f=96r och
eventuella allergier, vegetarianism eller liknande.
Inga djur =94r v=94lkomna den h=94r g=C2ngen heller, dessutom inga=
 br=C2kstakar eller
uppviglare!

VAD KOSTAR DET??
Middag fredag    30 SEK    Frukost l=96rdag  15 SEK    Lunch l=96rdag  20 SE=
K
Bankett l=96rdag  100 SEK    Frukost s=96ndag  15 SEK    Lunch s=96ndag  20 =
SEK

VAD TAR JAG MED MIG??
Ta med er feastgear och egen dryck. Alkoholfri dryck kommer att s=94ljas p=
=C2
plats. Alkohol =94r till=C2tet. M=C2ltiderna samt banketten =94r tidsenliga,=
 dvs
PET-eller moderna glasflaskor, elljus och liknande =94r f=96rbjudet. S=C2 gl=
=96m
inte ta med vaxljus, kandelabrar, krus och dukar! Ta med er varma kl=94der,
det =94r februari och ni kommer att bes=96ka den k=94nda v=94rldens nordliga=
ste
grupp.
Gl=96m f=96r allt i v=94rlden inte det goda hum=96ret.

HUR HITTAR JAG DIT?
Med akkja eller vagn s=96derifr=C2n eller norrifr=C2n  f=96ljer man E4:an=
 fram till
motortrafikleden och tar avfarten mot Boden (v=94g 97). Tag n=94sta avfart t=
ill
h=96ger mot kyrkbyn. K=96r rakt fram till kyrkan och s=96der om den finns
sockenstugan.
Med flygande kreatur, kogg eller liknande =94r det b=94st om ni kontaktar
kontaktperson i god tid f=96re festen (dagar, inte minuter) i annat fall har
vi kanske ingen tillg=94nglig kusk.

OBS! F=96rseningsavgift efter den 3/2 50 SEK.

KONTAKTPERSONER :
Erik FitzWilliam (H=C2kan Sundqvist)       Styrbj=96rn Halte (L.J=96rgen =F7=
hman)
Grindv. 6                                              V=94nortsv=94gen 6:27
961 50  Boden                                      977 54  Lule=C2
0921-72768 (hem)                              0920-211 637 (hem)
0921-55416 (arbete)                          0920-883 38 (arbete)
mobil: 070-555 79 26                         mobil: 010-33 139 33
will@ludd.luth.se                                 xordph@ludd.luth.se

=9Fn en g=C2ng...  Varmt V=94lkomna !




From nordmark-request  Thu Jan 16 02:08:28 1997
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 02:08:26 +0100
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From: xordph@ludd.luth.se ( =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen?= =?iso-8859-1?Q?_?=
	=?iso-8859-1?Q?=D6hman?= )
Subject: Northern lights feast February 7-9 
Status: O

Northern lights feast February 7-9

Noble people and peasants, Majesty and common people, hear this. Frostheim,
the most northern outpost in the known world invites one and all to come to
the Northern lights feast.

On Friday the 7th of February 06.00 P.m. we will lower our drawbridge and
open the inn, as usual you can buy good food, a lot of snacks and
refreshing drinks to affordable prices.

On Saturday it may be possible for those who are interested, to go to
Jokkmokks Marknad. (a winter fair that was held for the first time in 1605)
=46or those who rather stay in Lule=C2 there will be premises  for fighting =
and
dance available.
On Saturday evening we invite You to the banquet, come and enjoy delicious
food and great entertainment, hear lovely singing. All with good friends.
Everyone who wants to entertain is certainly welcome to do that.

Sunday is left for activities of your own choice, we pick up our stuff,
clean the place and leave.

HOW TO REGISTER
The last day for entries and payment is February 3rd 1997, after that their
will be an extra fee of 50 SEK.
Payment to Swedish postal account addressed to: 471 93 70-1 (SKA/Frostheim)
Please state your SCA and mundane name, address, telephone, and what you
are paying for, diet restriction and allergies.
No animals on the site this time.

PRICES
Dinner Friday     30 SEK  Breakfast Saturday 15 SEK  Lunch Saturday 20 SEK
Banquet Saturday 100 SEK  Breakfast Sunday   15 SEK  Lunch Sunday   20 SEK

USEFULL EQUIPMENT
Bring your feastgear and something to drink. Non-alcohol drinks will be
sold on the site but alcohol is allowed. Meals and banquet is considered
period, no plastic bottles, electric lighting or bad temper is allowed.
So don't forget your candles, candlesticks and tablecloth! Bring warm
clothing, its February and you are going to visit the most northern group
in the known world.
Whatever you do, don't forget to bring your good spirits.

HOW DO I GET THERE
If you travel by wagon from south or north, follow E4 through Sweden until
you reach Lule=C2, take the detour to road 97 against Boden. Take next detou=
r
to right towards "Kyrkbyn". Drive to the church. On the left side of the
church you find "Sockenstugan" were the site is. There will be signs that
shows the way from E4.
If you travel with flying creature or by longboat, you can contact the
autocrat or the tax collector to get a ride to the site, but do it in good
time, it takes time to gather the reindeers for the sledge.

Extra fee after February 3rd 1997 50 SEK.

AUTOCRAT                                         TAX COLLECTOR
Erik FitzWilliam (H=C2kan Sundqvist)     Styrbj=96rn Halte (L.J=96rgen =F7hm=
an)
Grindv. 6                                            V=94nortsv=94gen 6:27
961 50  Boden                                    977 54  Lule=C2
+46-921-72768 (home)                     +46-920-211 637 (home)
+46-921-55416 (work)                     +46-920-883 38(work)
Cellular: +46-70-555 79 26               Cellular: +46-10-33 139 33
will@ludd.luth.se                                 xordph@ludd.luth.se

Once again. Welcome to the northern part of the known world




From nordmark-request  Thu Jan 16 18:09:06 1997
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 18:07:56 +0100
To: nordmark@Ludd.LuTH.SE
From: Ninni M Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>
Subject: Var =?iso-8859-1?Q?k=F6pa?= =?iso-8859-1?Q?_?=
	=?iso-8859-1?Q?b=F6cker=3F?=
Status: O

Godkv=E4ll,

Jag har en liten fr=E5ga till alla Nordmarkare i Stockholmsomr=E5det:

Efter att ha tillbringat lite tid i Rialtos arkiv har jag samlat p=E5 mig en
lista p=E5 b=F6cker som jag skulle vilja f=E5 tag p=E5 (t ex Staniland: _Med=
ieval
Craftsmen: Embroiderers_ och Hieatt, Hosington och Butler: _Pleyn Delit:
medieval cookery for modern cooks_). Men var leta? Historiska museets shop
har mycket litteratur vet jag, men finns det andra bokl=E5der i stan som kan
vara till n=E5gon hj=E4lp f=F6r den medeltidsintresserade?

/Widumawi

------------------------------------------------------------
"How I loathe haste and violence and all that ghastly, slippery cleverness.
Unsound, unscholarly, insincere - nothing but propaganda and special
pleading and 'what do we get out of this?' No time, no peace, no silence;
nothing but conferences and newspapers and public speeches till one can't
hear one's self think." -- Lord Peter Wimsey c. 1935
------------------------------------------------------------
Ninni M Pettersson -- vidumavi@swipnet.se
------------------------------------------------------------



From nordmark-request  Mon Jan 20 12:37:15 1997
Return-Path: <jannis.koukoutsas@carta.se>
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From: jannis.koukoutsas@carta.se
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Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 12:26:42 +0100
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:_Var_k=F6pa_b=F6cker=3F?=
MIME-version: 1.0
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Status: O

Greetings!

Jo, jag har en bokhandel i Stockholm som jag alltid g=E5r till f=F6r mina=20
SCA-behov. Den har ett mycket bra sortiment, och bra priser. De best=E4ller=
 g=E4rna=20
in b=F6cker som de inte har p=E5 lager. Vid min senaste inventering  i Tors=
dags=20
(Jag g=E5r dit ca tv=E5 g=E5nger i m=E5naden) hade de f=F6ljande olika anta=
l b=F6cker p=E5=20
hyllan:

5-6 om Heraldik
5-6 om Kalligrafi
3-4 om Illuminering
3-4 om Historiska kl=E4desdr=E4kter
3 om Medeltida matlagning
2-3 om Riddarskapet
2 b=F6cker om vapen
2 b=F6cker om ornamentik och textil-m=F6nster=20
1 bok om diamanstlipning fr=E5n 1200-talet till 1900-talet!!!

Siffrorna =E4r ungef=E4rliga eftersom jag bokstavligen inte r=E4knade dem.=20=
Priserna=20
ligger oftast runt 150-250 kr. Vissa b=F6cker =E4r s=E5klart dyrare, men mi=
n=20
erfarenhet =E4r att =E4ven best=E4llningsb=F6cker har rimliga p=E5slag.=20

De g=F6r =E4ven ink=F6p fr=E5n brittiska f=F6rlag och bokklubbar av =F6vers=
kottsupplagor,=20
s=E5 ibland finns det mycket bra b=F6cker till *mycket* bra priser. T.ex.=20
Heraldikb=F6cker eller illuminering. G=E5 dit och kolla p=E5 =F6verv=E5ning=
en, direkt=20
till h=F6ger efter trappan.=20

T=E4nker f=F6rs=F6ka ordna med rabatt s=E5 sm=E5ningom f=F6r medlemmar i SK=
A-Nordmark, s=E5=20
om ni handlar d=E4r, *n=E4mn* att ni kommer fr=E5n f=F6reningen.

Risbergs Bokhandel
Sveav=E4gen 39
111 34 Stockholm
Tel: 08-104561, 08-104591
Fax: 08-214594

De har best=E4llningsblanketter f=F6r fax.

Mvh Jannis/Petrc

P.S. P=E5 bokrean kommer tydligen en medeltida matlagningsbok av Kajsa Varg=
 D.S.

From nordmark-request  Tue Jan 21 19:09:25 1997
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From: jannis.koukoutsas@carta.se
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 10:37:29 +0100
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:_Var_k=F6pa_b=F6cker=3F?=
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"""
Men Kajsa Varg levde ju p=E5 1700-talet, hur g=E5r det ihop? (Anv=E4nder al=
ltid
hennes recept f=F6r att anr=E4tta min julskinka och blandningen av =F6rtkry=
ddor,
kryddpeppar, kryddnejlikor och lagerblad kanske faktiskt =E4r medeltida...)
"""

"""
Men, Kajsa Varg levde v=E4l inte p=E5 medeltiden? Hon var s=E5 vitt jag kan=
=20
minnas l=E5ngt senare.
"""

Jepp, men det skall tydligen vara en bok om *medeltida* matlagning. Antinge=
n=20
har min k=E4lla fel, och vet inte vad medeltid =E4r, eller s=E5 har Varg vi=
d sitt=20
eget leverne skrivit om tidigare tiders matlagning. Vi f=E5r v=E4nta och se.=
 :)

Mvh, Jannis/Petrc



From nordmark-request  Tue Jan 21 19:09:26 1997
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From: jannis.koukoutsas@carta.se
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 10:37:29 +0100
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Subject: Senaste TI, artikeln om Hnefatafl
MIME-version: 1.0
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Status: O

Till er som har TI. Har ni l=E4st artikeln om Hnefatafl i senaste numret?

Jag s=E4ger bara:

!"#=A4%&/()=3D=01v=A3$=02k$=A7=A7|[]=02w=B1=B4=B1=02w][[|=A7=02k=02k$=A3=A3=
$=02k$=A3$=A3....

F=F6rklaring f=F6ljer i n=E4sta sparre.

;)

S=E5som det var skrivet, Petrc Monomachos

From nordmark-request  Tue Jan 21 19:57:24 1997
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 16:33:10 +0100
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"""
Men Kajsa Varg levde ju p=E5 1700-talet, hur g=E5r det ihop? (Anv=E4nder al=
ltid
hennes recept f=F6r att anr=E4tta min julskinka och blandningen av =F6rtkry=
ddor,
kryddpeppar, kryddnejlikor och lagerblad kanske faktiskt =E4r medeltida...)
"""

"""
Men, Kajsa Varg levde v=E4l inte p=E5 medeltiden? Hon var s=E5 vitt jag kan=
=20
minnas l=E5ngt senare.
"""

Jepp, men det skall tydligen vara en bok om *medeltida* matlagning. Antinge=
n=20
har min k=E4lla fel, och vet inte vad medeltid =E4r, eller s=E5 har Varg vi=
d sitt=20
eget leverne skrivit om tidigare tiders matlagning. Vi f=E5r v=E4nta och se.=
 :)

Mvh, Jannis/Petrc



From nordmark-request  Tue Jan 21 19:57:23 1997
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From: jannis.koukoutsas@carta.se
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 16:33:09 +0100
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Subject: Senaste TI, artikeln om Hnefatafl
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
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Status: O

Till er som har TI. Har ni l=E4st artikeln om Hnefatafl i senaste numret?

Jag s=E4ger bara:

!"#=A4%&/()=3D=01v=A3$=02k$=A7=A7|[]=02w=B1=B4=B1=02w][[|=A7=02k=02k$=A3=A3=
$=02k$=A3$=A3....

F=F6rklaring f=F6ljer i n=E4sta sparre.

;)

S=E5som det var skrivet, Petrc Monomachos

From nordmark-request  Tue Jan 21 20:50:35 1997
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 20:51:53 +0100
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
From: Anders Olsson <gilliam@wineasy.se>
Subject: Census blankett
Cc: 100345.1647@compuserve.com
Status: O

Hejsan alla p=E5 prath=F6gen.

Jag t=E4nkte bara meddela att det nu finns en web sida d=E4r man kan g=F6ra=
 sin
census registrering on-line. Denna web blankett kan man hitta p=E5
http://www.users.wineasy.se/gilliam/Census/

Det g=E5r naturligtvis lika bra att skicka in pappret som f=F6ljde med
Silversparren...


/Gilliam
---------------------------------------------------
Anders Olsson       (SCA: Gilliam Blackhorn)
e-mail home: gilliam@wineasy.se
e-mail work: anders.olsson@era.ericsson.se


From nordmark-request  Wed Jan 22 15:12:27 1997
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 15:11:00 +0100
From: "Kurtson, Fredrik" <fredrik.kurtson@allgon.se>
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Subject: Medeltida danser
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det ringde en tjej/dam/kvinna och undrade om medeltida danser och jag lovade=20=

att kolla.
rose-Marie Wikstr=F6m heter hon och har tel 08-512 400 18 och =F6nskar att n=E5=
gon=20
ringer till henne som har med detta att g=F6ra.
Hon vill allts=E5 b=F6rja dansa och l=E4ra sig mer om detta.

/Archie


From nordmark-request  Wed Jan 22 16:37:28 1997
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 16:35:14 +0100 (MET)
From: Rikard Johnels <jor@ffa.se>
To: "Kurtson, Fredrik" <fredrik.kurtson@allgon.se>
Subject: RE: Medeltida danser
Cc: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Status: O


On 22-Jan-97 Kurtson, Fredrik wrote:
>
>det ringde en tjej/dam/kvinna och undrade om medeltida danser och jag lova=
de=20
>att kolla.
>rose-Marie Wikstr=F6m heter hon och har tel 08-512 400 18 och =F6nskar att=
 n=E5gon=20
>ringer till henne som har med detta att g=F6ra.
>Hon vill allts=E5 b=F6rja dansa och l=E4ra sig mer om detta.
>
>/Archie

Forodrims dans gille tex.
Jag ringer henne!

        /Rikard Johnels Iain macCallum

----------------------------------
E-Mail: Rikard Johnels <jor@ffa.se>
Date: 22-Jan-97        Time: 16:36:05
----------------------------------
Coincidence, n.:=20
	You weren't paying attention to the other half of what was
going on.


From nordmark-request  Wed Jan 22 22:30:09 1997
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From: "Richard Emanuelsson" <richard.emanuelsson@swipnet.se>
To: <nordmark@ludd.luth.se>
Subject: subscribe me
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 22:28:11 +0100
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subscribe me
Hej! En hälsning från mig, Rurik Ulvbane/ Richard Emanuelsson

P.S  Än är det inte försent att anmäla sig till Vinterspelen 6   Ring mig
060121667 / 0708480684 
(eller maila)  D.S

From nordmark-request  Fri Jan 24 11:15:20 1997
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 11:15:06 +0100 (MET)
From: Rikard Johnels <jor@ffa.se>
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Cc: Iain MacCallum <im@hem.passagen.se>
Status: O

Hej alla d=E4r ute!

Finns det n=E5gra som =E4r intresserade av ringar till brynjor?
Storlek : 10 mm ytter diameter
Tr=E5d    : 1, 1.5 eller 2 mm  v=E4rmebehandlat st=E5l.
.
"Slutna ringar" dock ej svetsade...
Leverans: 5000 st / pack
Pris: Beroende p=E5 tr=E5d och antal best=E4llare...
1.0 mm / 5000 st : 200:-=20
1.5 mm / 5000 st : 250:-
2.0 mm / 5000 st : 500:-

=C4r du intresserad mailar du till mig p=E5 im@hem.passagen.se
och ber=E4ttar hur m=E5nga set du vill ha och jag bekr=E4ftar din best=E4ll=
ning.
Jag ordnar leverans n=E4r jag f=E5tt in tillr=E4ckligt med best=E4llningar=
=20
(jag m=E5ste f=E5 in best=E4llning p=E5 MINST 150000 st/dimension)=20
och alla betalat. Jag m=E5ste tyv=E4rr beg=E4ra f=F6rskotts betalning,=20
men du betalar f=F6rst n=E4r jag best=E4ller fr=E5n leverant=F6ren...
Endast postens pris f=F6r "Gr=F6na Pakaket" tillkommer och d=E5 endast om d=
u vill
ha leverans via posten...

H=F6r av er!

        /Iain MacCallum
        mailto:im@hem.passagen.se
       =20
----------------------------------
E-Mail: Rikard Johnels <jor@ffa.se>
Date: 24-Jan-97        Time: 11:14:08
----------------------------------
Like the ski resort of girls looking for husbands and husbands looking
for girls, the situation is not as symmetrical as it might seem.
		-- Alan McKay


From nordmark-request  Fri Jan 24 11:29:52 1997
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Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 11:27:50 +0100 (MET)
From: Rikard Johnels <jor@ffa.se>
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Subject: Ringbrynje ringar...
Status: O

Hej alla d=E4r ute!

Finns det n=E5gra som =E4r intresserade av ringar till brynjor?
Storlek : 10 mm ytter diameter
Tr=E5d    : 1, 1.5 eller 2 mm  v=E4rmebehandlat st=E5l.
.
"Slutna ringar" dock ej svetsade...
Leverans: 5000 st / pack
Pris: Beroende p=E5 tr=E5d och antal best=E4llare...
1.0 mm / 5000 st : 200:-=20
1.5 mm / 5000 st : 250:-
2.0 mm / 5000 st : 500:-

=C4r du intresserad mailar du till mig p=E5 im@hem.passagen.se
och ber=E4ttar hur m=E5nga set du vill ha och jag bekr=E4ftar din best=E4ll
ning.
Jag ordnar leverans n=E4r jag f=E5tt in tillr=E4ckligt med best=E4llningar
=20
(jag m=E5ste f=E5 in best=E4llning p=E5 MINST 150000 st/dimension)=20
och alla betalat. Jag m=E5ste tyv=E4rr beg=E4ra f=F6rskotts betalning,=20
men du betalar f=F6rst n=E4r jag best=E4ller fr=E5n leverant=F6ren...
Endast postens pris f=F6r "Gr=F6na Pakaket" tillkommer och d=E5 endast om d
u vill
ha leverans via posten...

H=F6r av er!

        /Iain MacCallum
        mailto:im@hem.passagen.se
       =20
----------------------------------
E-Mail: Rikard Johnels <jor@ffa.se>
Date: 24-Jan-97        Time: 11:28:30
----------------------------------
Harrisberger's Fourth Law of the Lab:
	Experience is directly proportional to the amount of equipment
ruined.


From nordmark-request  Fri Jan 24 15:00:47 1997
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From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jonas_Lindstr=F7m__720825?= <mx95_lij@m.kth.se>
Organization: KTH, Maskin
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 15:00:33 +0200
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Subject: Re: Medeltida danser
Priority: normal
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Message-ID: <1F88A21DD4@midgard.kth.se>
Status: O

Dansm=F6ten i Holmg=E5rd S=F6ndagar 16:00

Jonas Lindstr=F6m
Karlbergsv.65 III=F6g
11335 Stockholm

phone: 08-303649
e-mail: mx95_lij@m.kth.se

From nordmark-request  Mon Jan 27 08:21:24 1997
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 08:06:15 +0100 (MET)
From: Rikard Johnels <jor@ffa.se>
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Subject: Nytt Event I=?iso8859-1?Q?_Aarnimets=E4?=
Status: O

Varen H=E4lsade!
Jag bringar en h=E4lsning fr=E5n v=E5ra grannar i Aarnimets=E4.
Det kommer att h=E5llas ett litet "kort event" den 22-23 Februari.
Ett litet mysigt "no-fuzz-have-fun-and-meet-good-friends" haptida...
Jag vet inte mer =E4n s=E5 =E4nnu, om det tillkommer n=E5got s=E5 skriver j=
ag mera...

S=E5 detta =E4r vad som gives vid denna tid...

Aarnimets=E4 fest.
Plats: Hukka (Helsingfors)
Tid :22-23 Februari=20
Pris : Ej fasts=E4llt. Men mellan 80-100 Fmk.

Anm=E4lan senast den 14 Feb till:

Autokrat:=20
Irina Dimitrievna (Anne Liljestr=F6m)
Viherlaaksonranta 14a7
020710 ESPOO
+358-95 09 35 84

Feastokrat:
Wiljalempi T=E4lventyt=E4r (Laura H=E4m=E4ri)
Sulkapolku 6a39
00370 Helsinki
+358-9 55 79 31


Hoppas m=E5nga kommer

xxx-okraterna via Iain MacCallum


From nordmark-request  Mon Jan 27 10:10:46 1997
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 10:08:25 +0100
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From: Sven Noren <Sven.Noren@Kemi.UU.SE>
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?fr=E5n?= DML, =?iso-8859-1?Q?f=F6r?= rustmakare
Status: O


;Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 15:10:15 +0100
;From: Michael Lacy <mike@srmdel.demon.co.uk>
;Subject: London Armour Lecture

essage-Id: <v01510100af0e40bfb4b1@[158.152.173.216]>

 There is a very good lecture on the 28th of May at the Armourers &
Brasiers Company in London.  "The Art of the Armourer" - a day-long series
of lectures by at least 6 world renown armour experts, including Claude
Blair and Stuart Phyrr.  For info, contact;

The Clerk
Armourers' Hall
81 Coleman Street
London
EC2R 5BJ

The cost is =A335 sterling, and includes a buffet lunch.  Book Early.

Earl Michael DeLacy

	Frithiof the Friendly Herald  :-)[X]


From nordmark-request  Mon Jan 27 17:32:40 1997
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 17:00:12 +0100
To: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Subject: Vara med
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Status: O

F=E5r man vara med eller?
Min mail adress =E4r fortfarande torbjorn.sjostrom@teleperformance.se

Jag vet inte om jag g=F6r en korrekt anm=E4lan till mailinglistan, om det =E4=
r=20
n=E5gon som vet hur det g=E5r till kan j=E4tte g=E4rna h=F6ra av sig.

Med fruktansv=E4rt m=E5nga v=E4nliga h=E4lsningar / Eskil

From nordmark-request  Mon Jan 27 21:52:15 1997
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 21:52:06 +0100
To: torbjorn.sjostrom@teleperformance.se
From: Anders Olsson <gilliam@wineasy.se>
Subject: Re: Vara med
Cc: nordmark@ludd.luth.se
Status: O

Tjena Eskil.

>F=E5r man vara med eller?
>Min mail adress =E4r fortfarande torbjorn.sjostrom@teleperformance.se
>
>Jag vet inte om jag g=F6r en korrekt anm=E4lan till mailinglistan, om det=
 =E4r=20
>n=E5gon som vet hur det g=E5r till kan j=E4tte g=E4rna h=F6ra av sig.

Fakta om NML enligt http://www.ludd.luth.se/frostheim/diverse/nml.html:

Nordmarks mailinglista vad =E4r det ?

Nordmarks malinglista =E4r ett elektroniskt forum f=F6r Nordmarks=
 innev=E5nare.
H=E4r kan man sprida information om och diskutera =E4mnen som ber=F6r=
 Nordmark i
synnerhet och medleltidsleken i allm=E4nhet. Nordmarks mailinglista
administreras av L.=20
J=F6rgen =D6hman (Styrbj=F6rn Halte).=20

Ett STORT tack till Ludd (Lule=E5 h=F6gskolas datorf=F6rening) som uppl=E5te=
r
datorkraft och diskutrymme f=F6r Nordmarks mailinglista.=20


Hur g=E5r man med ?

F=F6r att g=E5 med i Nordmarks mailinglista skickar man ett brev till L.=
 J=F6rgen
=D6hman (Styrbj=F6rn Halte)<xordph@ludd.luth.se>. I brevet skriver man att
man vill g=E5 med i Nordmarks mailinglista, riktigt namn, medeltids namn och
e-mail adress.=20



Hur g=E5r man ur ?

F=F6r att g=E5 ur Nordmarks mailinglista skickar man ett brev till L. J=F6rg=
en
=D6hman (Styrbj=F6rn Halte) <xordph@ludd.luth.se>. I brevet skriver man att=
 man
vill g=E5 ur Nordmarks mailinglista, riktigt namn, medeltids namn och e-mail
adress.=20



Hur postar man ?

F=F6r att posta en text p=E5 Nordmarks mailinglista skickar man ett brev=
 till
nordmark@ludd.luth.se. I brevet skriver det man vill
ha sagt.=20
---------------------------------------------------
Anders Olsson       (SCA: Gilliam Blackhorn)
e-mail home: gilliam@wineasy.se
e-mail work: anders.olsson@era.ericsson.se


